Q. We have a gas water heater and we would like to have an electric w.h. instead. How hard would it be to switch, and what do we need to do to change it over?

A. Its not too difficult... You'll need to run a circuit to the new heater, from your panel box...so that means wire, and a circuit breaker. (it should be on a circuit by itself, straight from the panel box, not run from something else). Plumbing wise, you'll just need some standard fittings/adapters to connect to your existing plumbing....for example, you may need to extend the plumbing (or cut it back) to match the connector on the water heater. You'll also need a cap on the gas line. (I'd just tape over the exhaust stack opening from the old heater with aluminum tape, or duct tape) Have Fun

Q. I have a shower and the plumbing runs up from the floor. On the wall the containing the plumbing, on the opposite side, is an electrical switch and outlet. What is the minimum safe distance between the electrical lines and the plumbing so that a plumbing leak doesn't result in someone being killed or hurt?

A. There is no NEC (national electric code) restriction on this. The supply pipes and electric wire and box could actually all be on the same stud.

Q. I have a friend who has a home that has copper plumbing. The residence was built in 1988, and she was told by a neighbor that copper plumbing is bad and has to be removed/replaced in order to keep the value of the home for resale. This doesn't seem to make sense and the home DOES NOT have any plumbing issues to date. The neighbor cautioned that copper plumbing can burst. Is there any ring of truth to this or is the neighbor thinking of something else. A home built in 1988 doesn't seem that old to me. Please help. All answers are welcome. Thanks. Additional details. Here is the suspected issue: Different metals or types of pipe: copper and galvanized iron, were directly connected in the potable water supply system From this point of view, we are told the entire plumbing in the home needs to be changed. Can this be right?

A. If the copper pipe is stressed, it will create a leak, but only if stressed. By this I mean thin wall, kinks, etc. I have never heard of copper pipes devaluing a home. If anything, copper will add value compared to CPVC or galvanized. If there are no issues with leakage or significant corrosion, leave it.

A. I looked into this too and this is what I found. Yes, you can do plumbing but you cant certify it. In other words, you can build the whole plumbing, but then you will need a licensed plumber to come over and check it out and do all the peperwork. For example, you cannot install a boiler of a furnace, only licensed people can do that, but you can set all the pipes that go from the furnace to the house. If you have a freind and hes a licensed plumber, you are all set. Ask him if he would certify your work for some money in exchange. The whole job needs to be certified before home inspection comes.

Q. Wanted to see rough price for adding plumbing for dishwasher , there are hot and cold pipes and a drain pipe right below in basement about 5 feet from dishwasher and can this plumbing come up behind the dishwasher? The sink is to far away to tap off and I will be doing the electrical

A. I think you already know how to do this job. All you need to do is go to the hardware store and price it out yourself. I installed mine in much the same way bringing all my lines up through the floor behind the dishwasher. It wasn't to expensive. Good luck

Q. My father and i owned a plumbing and sewer company in the state of illinois and ive recently moved to ohio now and i was wondering what it takes to start my own company (PLUMBING & SEWER) in the state of ohio? please help answers are appricated thank you

A. Go to the state's official website and click the BUSINESS link. Search from there.

Q. Friends of mine recently bought an old house where the plumbing is outside the walls (sinks, toilets, etc) and I was just curious of about how old the house is.

A. Depends on where the house is located. In the north, indoor plumbing started to appear during the 1800's, and was fairly standard by 1875, though it was earlier for people with the money to make the modifications. I considered buying a house built in the 1700's that had the original indoor plumbing connected to an artesian well in the basement. In the south, or in camps and summer homes, the plumbing was often added to the outside of the building because the danger of freezing was much less. Even here near the Canadian border, there were houses 60 years ago that still had no electricity and used outhouses. The first house I bought was build in the 1860's with no indoor plumbing except for a kitchen pump connected to a point well in the basement (fairly typical). There was an outhouse. Later, after electricity was installed (c 1910) part of a bedroom was converted to a bathroom and an electric pump installed to pump water from the well to the bath and kitchen. The kitchen hand pump remained until the 1960's when the old man died and the kitchen was modernized. And, of course, the Romans had indoor plumbing 2000 years ago and Medieval castles had indoor water closets and well houses connected or incorporated into the building.

Q. We have a house that was built in 1900s and a bedroom was made into the bathroom. The plumbing is in the floor. Plywood was screwed around the plumbing as an access door and then carpet was placed over it - of course the carpet got moldy after many, many years. Now we want to place ceramic tile in the bathroom - how can we still get access to the plumbing easily if something goes wrong and there is tile there? I want to think you can do a tile an access panel that can be removable but would it leak if it got wet? Help!

A. If your not happy with the answers you got, you might want to try this.... they now make a laminate floor that looks a lot like tile you could leave the screwed down plywood and go over it with the laminate. then if you have to get to it just remove the molding and threshold piece and the laminate (as long as you don't glue it) will lift out one piece at a time from the last piece installed in. (you might want to buy the type with the foam backing so that will come up with the floor)